 More
than four thousand years ago, Bali was an emerald green, tropical
rain forest covered island. The first wave of human arrivals from
across the seas brought with them techniques for rice cultivation,
new languages and new customs. These early immigrants and others who
followed over the years helped to create a haven, providing today's
visitors with a wealth of sights and sounds, dances, music, arts and
crafts.
The Island of the Gods is situated approximately on latitude 8o
South and longitude 115o East. Bali and the neighboring
island of Lombok are the most westerly of the Little Sunda Islands,
and part of the 13,700 islands that make up Indonesia, the largest
archipelago in the world.
The so-called Wallace Line that runs between the island and Lombok
serves as the boundary between Asia and Australia, thus naturally
separating the flora and fauna between the Sunda Shelf from the Sahul
Shelf (to which Australia belongs). To the east lies the island of
Java, which once was joined to Bali.
While little is known about the stone age people who first settled
on the island, the bronze age people left a more lasting legacy. The
Dong Son culture with its highly developed techniques of casting bronze
objects flourished in Bali. The largest of the mysterious bronze rain
drums, found in several Southeast Asian countries as well, was cast
in Bali. Considered a sacred object, it is worshipped by the Balinese
in the Pura Penataran Sasih Temple in Pejeng. It is said to be wheel
that fell off the chariot of the goddess of the moon.
The bronze age people, who had a highly sophisticated art of casting
bronze objects, also knew the techniques of dry rice cultivation and
the art of weaving. Later waves of migrants, Malays mainly, brought
with them the secret of wet rice cultivation that increase yields
several fold. It began the transformation of Bali into a complex system
of irrigation that would provide the water for the rice terraces.
Rice then became the stuff of life and the measure of wealth.
Kingdoms began to flourish based on this wealth, with all playing
homage to the pre-Hindu form of Dewi Sri, the beloved goddess of rice,
represented in the ancient form of the chili motif found to this day
in offerings.
Hinduism was introduced into Bali by the Brahmin priests in the 1st
Century AD. These priests traveled along with the Indian merchants
who were seeking the fabulous wealth of islands in this region. Hinduism
caught on in Bali because it received the patronage of the kings.
Buddhism to was accepted and both religions would be blended with
elements of the old animistic faith. Throughout Bali, remains of these
early independent kingdoms have been found attesting to their early
practices and beliefs.
Of the many tales of old, one tells of a legendary evil king with
a pig's head name Beda Ulu, the same name given to the present-day
village of Bedulu, the site of his capital. Another relates to a giant
Kebo Iwa, who is said to have carve many caves with his finger nails.
These tales continue to be told to this day by the older folk.
Yet it was Hinduism and its off-shoot Buddhism that attained the dominant
position in the Balinese way of life. Even the inscriptions left by
the early kingdoms, were in the form and language of ancient India.
Later monuments used a combination of the Indian and the Balinese
languages.
Close to Bedulu stands the Goa Gajah (Elephant Caves), a religious
complex that blends both the practices of Hinduism and Buddhism. Inside
this complex there is a cave for meditation with three sets of lingga
(phalluses) of Siva, a holy bathing pool and a sculpture of Hariti,
the Buddhist deity.
Several other monuments still stand as testimony to a glorious past
in Bali's history. Gunung Kawi or Poet's Mountain houses several 11th
century royal tombs. The list would seem endless for the student of
early Balinese history and just as fascinating for the modern day
traveler.
But by the 12th century, this glorious period would come to an end
with the invading armies of the Majapahit Empire and their brilliant
General Gadjah Mada. Bali would become an important province of this
East Java kingdom that became one of the most powerful empires in
this part of the world.
It is said that Hindu Majapahit Empire gave Bali the form and structure
that stands to this day. The caste system, rules and rituals, art
and temple architecture were all passed on from this powerful empire.
But Islam began to gain a foothold in the region in the 15th century,
much of the strong links with India were broken. Even the mighty Majapahit
would crumble by the 16th century and many Javanese nobility moved
to Bali, the last stronghold of Hinduism, taking with them their courtly
rituals and practices.
Left on its own, Bali would return to its animistic past. But this
was the period when gamelan, dance, drama and the shadow puppet theatre
would develop and flourish. It was also a time of profound change,
for not only would there be the rise of Islam but the first westerners
were beginning to appear.
The Dutch admiral, Cornelious Houtman arrived off the coast of Bali
in 1598 to a friendly welcome by Watu Renggong who was king of a united
Bali. Encouraged by this gesture, the Dutch named the island New Holland
and their influence grew over the archipelago. But with the death
of Watu Renggong, the other rulers would rule independently while
still paying homage to the Dewa Agung - the honorary title of the
Raja of Klungkung. The rulers would often engage in bloody warfare,
and a period of conflict took hold.
This would change in the 19th century when the Dutch began to consolidate
their hold on the various regions of their domination. The Balinese
were a thorn in Dutch ambitions, as they seemed to enjoy a measure
of independence and prosperity. In the 1840s, the Dutch mounted three
wars to gain control over northern Bali. They succeeded only because
other rulers in Bali sought Dutch aid for their own gains.
There were local heroes like Gusti Djelantik, who managed defeat the
Westerners on one occasion in a brilliant move by feigning retreat,
only to lead his army now brimming with over confidence, over the
hills of Jagaraga in the north where they were ambushed. The ill equipped
local forces were often easily outgunned by the Dutch with their modern
weaponry.
The Dutch launched several ruthless campaigns in the archipelago,
and it seemed the brunt of it were aimed at the Balinese. This response
in Bali was typical. Local kings led their followers in puputan ("ending")
in which all were given the rites of the dead and then marched out
to be mowed down by Dutch gunfire. Those who were still standing were
cut down by their own followers, thus ensuring their heavenly path
to the glorious paradise of their illustrious ancestors.
The puputan happened between 1906 and 1908 when the kings of Denpasar
and Klungkung chose this path rather than surrender. Thus the Dutch
gained complete control over the island and imposed their brand of
colonialism, which even included slavery and forced labour. But with
the colonial power in firm control, the first waves of tourist began
to "discover" the island.
Soon the world would hear of Bali, the islands of Gods, dance and
drama. Thousands would descend on the island in search of the bronze
drums and bare breasted beauties, and several would make their homes
here, or take back with them some exotic object to adorn their own
homes in the west. Even the local royalty would get into the act,
competing among themselves to hire out automobiles and even their
princely homes. Home stay was here to stay.
Of the many westerners who fell to the charms of Bali, perhaps the
most famous was Walter Spies, the German painter who left legacy for
all to see. Art and crafts were given new life catering to the needs
of the tourists. This was a Golden Era in Bali's annals. Movie makers
would immortalize the isle, while books would capture forever the
charms and life style of the Balinese.
But in the 20th century Bali would also suffer the ravages of disasters;
an earthquake and the eruption of Mount Batur in 1917 caused the loss
of human life and untold suffering, then the island was hit by the
Great Depression. Yet Bali remained in the minds of the most as the
holiday island and almost every tourist fell in love with it.
Even the Japanese occupation was only a temporary obstacle, for slowly
after the end of the Second World War, Soekarno, who was part Balinese,
would declare Indonesia an independent nation and with it Bali gained
its freedom forever.
The early days after the 1945 Declaration of Independence was tough
of the islanders as with the rest of the nation. But independent Indonesia
was a reality and the fledgling nation set its own course. Tougher
times lay ahead when in the 1960s the island would suffer a famine,
and first known eruption of the holy mountain, Mount Agung. Then as
Balinese society itself was deeply divided between political ideologies
and patronage, thousands suffered on the island, until the New Order
Government, led by President Soeharto restored peace and gave the
nation a new direction.
Tourist hotels, in the meantime, had sprung up in several parts of
the island. The tourism industry was flourishing soon to gain the
status of being among the top foreign exchange earners for the country.
Almost every major hotel chain in the world is now represented in
the island. The dream or turning Bali into a tourist haven has now
become a reality. While the early attractions were mostly around Sanur
and Ubud, the planned Nusa Dua complex and even Kuta Beach, which
was unplanned, have become the major centers of tourist interest.
In Kuta, the hippies and the backpackers led to its rapid growth,
and even to this day remains the place where you will find the true
holiday-maker. But Bali offers much more for those who really want
to spend time savouring a lifestyle, tradition, friendliness and inspiration.
Head out to Ubud to immerse in the arts and crafts, to Batubulan for
stone carvings, to Mas for silver and gold, to Tenganan for the geringsing
cloth. You could spend a lifetime here and yet discover some place
new, something that you missed. This is the charm and beauty of Bali.
Arrive on its shores and be prepared to be swept off your feet. |
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| Bali News |
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